Toners, Astringents and Oil Reducing Topicals

Astringent soaps and skin toning agents that shrink the skin pores such as witch hazel, alum, oatmeal, very cold water, and rubbing alcohol should be avoided due to the fact that as they shrink pores, they trap more  oil in the skin. These products can be too harsh and drying striping the skin of its needed oil barrier which results in the body producing more oil to compensate for the oils stripped from the skin. Often your skin still appears oily so you apply more of the product, which in turn causes the skin to produce more oil to protect itself from the harmful ingredients.

Salicylic acid is an ingredient commonly used to remove calluses from your feet. Salicylic acid belongs to the family of ingredients called Beta Hydroxy Acid or BHA. Beta Hydroxy Acid or BHA is a derivative of aspirin and is often used in skin care products to accelerate skin cell turnover and help clear pores. It can penetrate more deeply than Alpha Hydroxy Acid and is gentler. Its effect on the epidermis and upper dermis are similar to those of Retin-A, but with less irritation. It is soluble in oil and can exfoliate oily skin areas, even within oil-rich pores. Therefore, it has a beneficial effect on acne, pigmentation disturbances, and sun damaged skin. Because it does exfoliate, use of sun protection is needed. But too much can have a negative effect causing increased facial redness, skin irritation, and more acne. BHA ingredients may be listed on packaging inserts under the following names: Salicylic acid, Salicylate, Sodium salicylate, Willow extract, Beta hydroxybutanoic acid, Tropic acid, or Trethocanic acid. Currently, the most commonly used BHA in cosmetics is salicylic acid. On rare occasions, citric acid is also listed as a BHA in cosmetic formulations; although, citric acid is more commonly considered to be an AHA.

Should your skin has become damaged by the use or over use of acne products containing benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or azelaic acid, applying jojoba oil to the skin “tricks” the skin into thinking there is sufficient oil on the skin so the body slows oil production to that area of the skin to prevent it from being too dry. When the skin is too dry, the skin pores shrink with resulting ‘clogged pores’.

Benzoyl peroxide removes the top layer of skin, which also decreases the sun protective effect (roughly SPF 3). This can cause sunburn and premature aging if sun protection is not worn. If sun protection is used, benzoyl peroxide has similar effects to glycolic acid peels which are so-called anti-aging treatments.

Azelaic acid gel is used to clear the bumps, lesions, and swelling caused by rosacea (a skin disease that causes redness, flushing, and pimples on the face). Azelaic acid cream is used to treat acne. Azelaic acid is in a class of medications called dicarboxylic acids. It works to treat acne by killing the bacteria that infect pores and by decreasing production of keratin, a natural substance that can lead to the development of acne. The way azelaic acid works to treat rosacea is not known. Azelaic acid may cause side effects such as itching and burning of the skin.